Philip Spiess
Mecklenburg Gardens was the oldest of the several famous Cincinnati German restaurants, being founded in 1865. It suffered first through a bad fire in the late 1960s and then through a period in the 1970s [?] when it was serving non-German food -- practically health food (it seemed to be owned at that time by Hippies) -- and nouvelle cuisine, but it's long since gotten over that! Its Biergarten was where I would take out-of-town college friends in the summer in my undergraduate and graduate days (there and to the Wiedemann Brewery roof garden in Newport, Kentucky, overlooking downtown Cincinnati).
Grammer's was founded in 1872; among its specialties were "Three Cheese and Herb Strudel," "Chicken Paprikash," "'Hungarian' Beef Goulash," and the best Schmierkase in Cincinnati (though that produced commerically by Coor's Dairy on Gray Road in Winton Place was highly respectable, too).
Lenhardt's was the "johnny-come-lately" of Cincinnati's top German eateries, being founded in 1955; it was actually Austrian-Hungarian cuisine, rather than German. As Steve Levinson rightly points out, their house specialty was Schnitzel. The regular menu offered 10 different kinds of Schnitzel, which I'm going to list to make Steve's mouth water: Schnitzel au Naturel (Naturschnitzel) (served in its own juices); Wiener Schnitzel (fried in egg and bread crumbs); Schnitzel a la Parisienne (fried in egg so the crust was like a fluffy omelet); Holsteiner Schnitzel (served with a fried egg and anchovies on top); Sailor Schnitzel (served with fried ham and melted Swiss cheese on top); the Hungarian Paprika Schnizel (made with onions and paprika); Kaiser Schnitzel (served in a delicate cream sauce with lemon zest and capers); Italian Schnitzel (made with Parmesan cheese and garlic); Rahmschnitzel (topped with crumbled bacon and chopped onion, and "bubbled" in sweet cream); and St. Moritz Schnitzel (Swiss Chalet Schnitzel) (breaded veal filet stuffed with ham and Gruyere cheese). Lenhardt's also served a favorite dish of mine, Sauerbraten with potato pancakes and applesauce, but I don't recall ever ordering it there, because my Grandmother Goepp made the best Sauerbraten in Cincinnati (she made it with ginger snaps).
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