Philip Spiess
Folks, our secret wars have gone way back. Herewith is one such saga.
HOW CHIQUITA CAME TO CINCINNATI: A Story with A Peel
Prologue: If you’re of an age like me (and who isn’t, in our Walnut Hills class?), you’re more than likely to remember one of the most popular advertising jingles of the 1940s (introduced in 1944 in movie theaters, then moved onto radio) and of the 1950s (on television). It went like this (original lyrics; others were added later):
“I’m Chiquita Banana, and I’ve come to say
Bananas have to ripen in a certain way:
When they are fleck’d with brown and have a golden hue,
Bananas taste the best and are the best for you.
You can put them in a salad;
You can put them in a pie – ai!
Any way you want to eat them,
It’s impossible to beat them!
But bananas like the climate of the very, very tropical equator –
So you should never put bananas in the re-frig-er-ator!
(Si, si, si, si!)” [added in 1947]
[If you don’t remember the quasi-calypso tune, look up “Chiquita Banana: The Original Commercial” on YouTube (Jersey Coaster, 2007) or elsewhere.]
The Chiquita Banana cartoon character, an animated banana with a woman’s dress and legs, was created in 1944 by the cartoonist Dik Browne, best known for his comic strips “Hi and Lois” and “Hagar the Horrible.” It was loosely based, no doubt, on the then popular Hollywood singer and actress Carmen Miranda [Maria de Carmo Miranda de Cunha] (1914-1955), the “Brazilian Bombshell,” always fantastically over-dressed (except, I have learned, for her panties) and wearing way too much make-up, but most famous of all for her fruit-adorned hats (yes, including bananas, unlike the African-American expatriate singer and dancer, Josephine Baker [1906-1975], the “Black Venus,” who entranced Paris from the 1920s through the 1950s wearing pretty much only bananas on her famous “banana skirt” – and a beaded headband).
The first singing voice of “Chiquita Banana” was that of vocalist Patti Clayton, followed by Elsa Miranda, June Valli, and finally Hollywood actress and singer Monica Lewis, who performed in Hollywood movies and sang with the Benny Goodman Orchestra, and who died in 2015 at the age of 93. She always kept a little Chiquita Banana doll on her bed.
Some History I: So how is the “Chiquita Banana” story connected with Cincinnati? Let us start with the Lindner family, currently ranked by Forbes (2015) as the 129th richest family in the United States. The family’s rise to prominence began when Carl Lindner, Sr., opened a dairy processing plant in Norwood, Ohio, in 1938. Lindner believed that if he could sell enough milk through his own company, he would not have to deal with delivery middlemen, and he could then pass the savings on to customers. His first United Dairy Farmers store was at 3955 Main Avenue (now Montgomery Road) in Norwood; it opened in 1940.
By 1960, United Dairy Farmers had expanded to thirty stores. [I still remember vividly that on particularly hot nights we would run from Clifton up Vine Street to the United Dairy Farmers store in St. Bernard, Ohio, for ice cream, or, if we were staying our usual couple of summer weeks at my grandparents’ home in Finneytown, we would go down North Bend Road to go swimming at the pool in College Hill, and buy our ice cream at the United Dairy Farmers store near there. My favorite was a banana-split dish of peach ice cream with fresh peaches on top, covered with caramel sauce. But they discontinued the fresh peaches because the peaches turned brown too quickly, so I had to fall back on crushed pineapple with my banana-split ice cream, with the caramel on top of that.]
The Lindners’ United Dairy Farmers company did so well that by 1960 the family bought the American Fimancial Group of investments, son Carl Lindner, Jr., running the American Financial Group and son Richard Lindner running United Dairy Farmers. (More about them later.) Sometime after 1975, Carl Lindner, Jr.’s American Financial Group bought into the United Brands Company [see below], taking control of it in 1984 and transforming it into Chiquita Brands International, moving the company to Cincinnati in 1985.
Some Other History II: So how did Chiquita come into the picture? We now must take the story back to 1870, when ship’s captain Lorenzo Dow Baker of Wellfleet, Massachusetts, purchased 160 bunches of bananas in Jamaica and resold them in Jersey City eleven days later, thereby unconsciously launching the banana production industry. In 1873 Central American railway developer Minor C. Keith began to experiment with banana production in Costa Rica, later planting bananas alongside his railway track. Eventually he formed the Tropical Trading and Transport Company, exporting bananas and other tropical fruit to the United States. Meanwhile, in 1878, Baker joined forces with Andrew W. Preston to form the Boston Fruit Company.
In 1899 the Boston Fruit Company and eight other fruit-exporting businesses controlled by Minor Keith merged to found the United Fruit Company; it became the first company to use refrigeration during open sea transport. [Uh, don’t look behind the green banana curtain just yet to see the bananas in the refrigerator (ai)!] However, United Fruit also came to be of notorious fame; it was controlled for years by its lawyer, Bradley Palmer, who proceeded to buy out fourteen competitors; he was later a much-sought-after expert on business law, advising presidents and Congress. The company traded in tropical fruit, primarily bananas (always a slippery business), grown on plantations in Central America and the West Indies and sold in the United States and Europe.
By 1930 United Fruit’s banana fleet had grown to ninety-five ships, and it had become the largest employer in Central America and the single largest land owner in Guatemala. Thereby it came to control vast territories and transportation networks in the areas of its plantations, maintaining a virtual monopoly in countries, which, because of its economic and political reach, came to be known as “banana republics” [see Phil Ochs’ 1965 protest song, “I Ain’t Marching Anymore,” which mentions the United Fruit Company]. Indeed, in 1928 workers in the company’s Colombia banana plantations went on strike in protest against poor pay and working conditions; the repression of the revolt by the Colombian government (under the political pressure of United Fruit) resulted in the deaths of scores of plantation workers and their families. (This episode is known in the history of Colombia as the Massacre de las Bananeras – “the Banana Massacre” – and is referred to in Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s 1967 novel, One Hundred Years of Solitude.)
Thus United Fruit was widely accused of “exploitative neocolonialism” as a multinational corporation influencing the internal politics of such countries as Costa Rica, Honduras, and Guatemala. Its major competitor was the Standard Fruit Company, which later became the Dole Food Company (once controlling Hawaii through pineapple production in a manner much like United Fruit in Central America). But it was the United Fruit Company which introduced the “Chiquita Banana” ads in the 1940s.
However, in the late 1960s United Fruit went through a major decline [slipped on its own banana peels, perhaps?] and it merged in 1970 with corporate raider Eli M. Black’s AMK company to become the United Brands Company. Black mismanaged this company, and in 1974 Hurricane Fifi destroyed many banana plantations in Honduras, affecting the company’s finances. Further, a scheme to bribe the Honduran president was plotted by United Brands; it was later uncovered by the Securities and Exchange Commission and dubbed “Bananagate.” Black committed suicide by jumping from his office window on the 44th floor of the Pan Am building in New York City in 1975, and Lindner’s American Financial Group promptly bought into United Brands, acquiring control of the company in 1984, and renaming it Chiquita Brands International (1990) after the still remembered popular ads [see above].
A Bit of Modern History: Thus Chiquita came to Cincinnati from New York City in 1985, moving into the 29-story Columbia Plaza building (250 East Fifth Street, built in 1984 at the corner of 5th and Sycamore Streets); it was thereby renamed the Chiquita Center. Initially, there was a sculpture by George Sugarman at the entrance to the building called “Cincinnati Story,” depicting the rise of the city from the banks of the Ohio River, but for some reason it was moved to Pyramid Hill Sculpture Park in Hamilton, Ohio. Likewise, at first the building served as a weather beacon, the top story of the building lighting up with a different color, depending on the weather forecast; this was discontinued at some point also.
But all was not smooth sailing. Although the company rebranded itself Chiquita Brands Inter-national in 1990, and undertook major investments in Costa Rica, the company began to see a decline in Honduras banana production that same year, possibly (as was learned much later) because of the blight (“Panama Disease”) that was wiping out the “Cavendish” strain of banana, the kind that we all grew up with (though the original most successfully-selling strain, the “Gros Michel,” had been dying out much earlier), through much of Central America. As a result, Chiquita initiated the “Banana Wars” with its European rival Fyffes (based in Ireland) because of the limited banana supply: it began illegally seizing and destroying Fyffes’ shipments on the high seas, as well as bribing judges to validate detention orders on Fyffes’ ships, thus destroying ten million dollars worth of produce. Despite all this, Chiquita opened the world’s largest banana processing facility in Costa Rica in 1998.
But things went from bad to worse. In November, 2001, Chiquita filed for bankruptcy protection in order to restructure the company; its emergence from bankruptcy in March, 2002, ended Cincinnati businessman Carl Lindner, Jr.’s control of the company. Thereupon Chiquita Brands International announced it would leave Cincinnati in 2011, moving to Charlotte, North Carolina, in 2012, to eventually merge with Fyffes – but instead merging with Cutrale-Safra in 2014 and becoming Chiquita Brands International Sarl, headquartered in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Thereupon in 2014 the Chiquita Center in downtown Cincinnati had its name changed to 250 East Fifth Street, the name with which it had started out!
As to Chiquita Banana herself? Peel-off stickers with the Chiquita logo on them started being placed on bananas in 1963. They are still placed by hand today to avoid bruising the fruit. The Chiquita female banana character was changed into an actual woman(still looking much like Chiquita Banana) in 1987. Later, a new Miss Chiquita (her new name) came into being in 1998.
Epilogue: Oh, and yes, you can store bananas in the refrigerator – if they are ripe! The cold will inhibit any more ripening; if they are stored in the refrigerator and are unripe, they will cease to get ripe and will probably turn black – hence the Chiquita jingle’s warning! (Si, si, si, si!)
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