Philip Spiess
So (as everyone seems to start their statements these days) I have been cooking today in preparation for tomorrow's Superbowl game. What else but Cincinnati chili?
Now, ordinarily, I would make my Grandmother Goepp's recipe for "Cincinnati Chili," which from time immemorial we ate often at a Sunday night supper, and which I've made, to great acclaim, for numerous work and church pot-lucks over the years, though, were I in Cincinnati, my commercial choice would be Skyline Chili, BUT --
I found, to my astonishment, in the 2006 edition of Joy of Cooking (compiled by Cincinnati folk, if you didn't know) the recipe for the original "Cincinnati Chili," i.e., Empress Chili (founded 1922), and called "Empress" because its first storefront restaurant was housed in the "Empress Burlesk Theater" building, which was exactly what you think it was (i.e., striptease). Although there for many years, Empress Chili eventually moved to Fifth Street across from the Art Moderne Greyhound Bus Terminal in order to expand, whereas Empress Burlesk, in a reduced portion of its building, became the Gayety Burlesque Theater (1940; torn down in 1970), which some of us may remember. And the result was that the site of the birth of Cincinnati chili is now the central library of the Cincinnati and Hamilton County Public Library system (yes, you do remember the Gayety next door, don't you?).
But I digress. So (that opening again) I am making the recipe for Empress Chili (created by the Kiradjieff family, formerly of Macedonia and then of Cincinnati), which all histories and recipes claim to be "the original," despite how much it has gone through small alterations over the years; nevertheless, it is the one which introduced chocolate into Cincinnati chili (which many non-Cincinnati recipe books claim is what makes Cincinnati chili "Cincinnati Chili"; Skyline Chili, to my knowldege, does not include chocolate; it emphasizes cinnamon as its "secret ingredient"). Said Empress chili sits overnight to "mature," and we hope to eat it during a victory tomorrow.
I have also made "Louisiana Peanut Pie," a Cajun dish, to go with it as dessert -- but that's another story.
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